How To Rebuild a Casale V-Drive

All the text and photos were provided by Art Anderson. This info was taken from this site: http://www.laidbackboatersboard.com/casale-v-drive-rebuild-t1210.html

First thing as you disassemble use a diagram to make note of where each part goes. Mark the spacers to be sure they don't get mixed up. Then take your bearings and seals to your local parts store or if available an actual bearing store. You can buy kits online that have all the necessay bearings and seals but it is usually more money. You will need at least a gasket kit. I purchased mine along with the bearing puller at Rex Marine.
For those that have never changed gears before, I'll give a quick rundown on it. The first thing you will need is a bearing puller (unless you have the newer ones with tapered bearings) for the top bearing! Remove the cap and make note of how many shims there is, pull the bearing out. Now take a small trash bag and slip it on the bottom to catch the oil, now remove all the case bolts, the oil will drain in the bag, throw the bag away. On the bottom cap there will be a bolt with a jam nut, run the bolt in against the shaft, keep turning the bolt in until the case comes off, the bearing will stay in the case. Make note of your spacers, they must go back the same way. Take note of the backlash on the gears, now remove them and put the new set in, the backlash should be the same! You can reuse the case gasket if it didn't tear up when it came apart, when reassembling use ONLY white grease on both sides. Put the spacers back on then the case back on the bottom shaft, you can use a piece of wood and tap it on. The top bearing can be put on by tapping it on or putting a little heat on the case and pushing it on, put all your case bolts back on. On the case half you just put on, remove the pipe plug at the top, on the back case down where the output shaft is, there is another pipe plug remove that one also. Now poor the oil in the top one until the oil comes to the threads on the bottom one just like in a rear end. Put the plugs back in and you're good to go!

On to the rebuild. I will not do a bolt by bolt deal since this is coming back apart to trim the plate for mounting and detail the cases. Then I will do the final stack up and assembly. What I'll show is the procedure to measure everything up!

First step will be to press on all the new bearings on all three shafts!

Next I'll install the top and bottom bearings and shafts, they go in the rear case with the lip. You can press them in the case or apply a little heat and they slide right in. I set the case out in the sun and put the bearings and shafts in the freezer for a while as I did other stuff. After the case got warm and the bearings cold, they just dropped right in!

Gather up the shim gaskets and refer to diagram for the amount that goes on the top cap and the shift housing!

Now measure the depth of the cap and make note of the reading!

Now measure how much the bearing protrudes out of the case and make note of your reading. Now compare the two readings. Whatever the differences are determines how many shims to use, it must come out equal that's what holds the bearings in place. If there's a gap the bearings can walk back and you will end up with play in the gears and end up with internal damage. Install the cap and the shift housing in reverse order as you took it apart!

Now we can check the backlash. Referring to diagram for the right spacer for the bottom shaft, (no spacer on the top) I'll check backlash on the gears...

With the gears installed we can check for backlash. If you don't have a feel for backlash, I STRONGLY advise that you use a dial indicator to check this. Ideal is .008 to .010 backlash! If you're lucky and you have the ideal amount you're done. But if they are too tight, the bottom gear has to go back towards the case and if you’re loose it will have to go forward. If the gear has to go back, you can machine the spacer. If I remember right, .005 will give you .001 clearance. Note that what ever is taken off the inner spacer will have to be added to the outer one, you will have to get another spacer or dig one up and machine it to the required size. The same procedure is done for the opposite, just remember that whatever is taken off has to be added to the other!

Now that you're satisfied with the lash one last check, put outer spacers on and slip the bearing on the shaft, while pushing down on the bearing try and lift the gear, you must not be able to, if you can move the gear that means the bearing is bottomed out on the shaft and not the spacer and that will result in the gear moving back and forth when running, not good! If you have slack you can use a feeler guage between the spacer and gear to figure how much longer the spacer has to be, do this on both shafts!

With that done the plate can be installed to the rear case! If you're replacing the old case gaskets, make sure they are the same thickness as the old ones, there are thick and thins and some older ones had a thick and a thin on one side, make sure that they are put back on the same side! Only use white grease on both sides of the gaskets so they will not stick. That way they will come off when needed and the gaskets can be reused and you won't have to scrape off the gasket and gouge up the surface!

Now set the case down on the plate, put 2 bolts in at the top and bottom to line up the gasket and install the 2 5/16 bolts and tighten, those are what holds the V-drive together when changing gears!

Now turn it over and put the bottom spacer on and the gears (Bottom gear first) and put on the outer spacers!

Now grease up both sides of the front case gasket and lay the case down. Install the bottom bearing first, you can tap it on or use a little heat, make sure the bearing bottoms out on the spacer. Repeat on the top one, install all the bolts. Now install the end caps as discussed previously, done deal! Hope this made sense!